Moody Vintage: Alexander Olch

A.P.C. - 5:40 PM

Gentlemen's Sartorial 38

P laid is one of those things to check off on the list of Autumn 'must-have'. I've recently shared something on the MV Facebook ...

Alexander Olch - 9:15 PM

Gentlemen's Sartorial 29

L ast night was the season 4 premiere of one of my all time favorite shows, White Collar . It is one of the most stylish shows on televisi...

Recently, there was a feature on shirt collars on GQ.com. The recent trend is all about how shorter the collars are now on dress shirts and shirts in general (not including polo shirts). It portrays a little bit more of a professional look, younger and in some cases, from the words of GQ, makes you look richer. But as most of you should know by now, it about the entire look. You have to have all aspects of style in check before you can project the best look possible.
I love skinny ties (slim ties), mainly because it fits my frame; it's according to my shorter stature. It's obviously not just for shorter men but with men who take their fittings seriously. Now, for my rounder gentlemen, I advise you not to wear these skinny ties. It will not be flattering. That doesn't mean you are missing out, you can still look pretty darn good with the wider ties that fit your frame. Don't feel singled out because of the abundance and triumphant return of the skinny tie. The rules are actually still the same. It doesn't matter if it's a skinny tie or a much wider one. Here are some things to consider before you choose a tie for your outfit. Keep in mind the more preferred collars are the shorter in length or small collars. (Click image captions for more info.)

GQ.com

Know your collars - The most common collars we have are the semi-spread collars. Along with the spread (the very wide space in between), button-down, club collar, and pinned collars, which aren't as common but still used. (in the image top to bottom: club, semi-spread, spread, button-down)
In the frame - Before putting on a tie, remember that space in between the collar is like a frame for a picture. The space will dictate which proper knot to use for your tie. If you wear a spread collar shirt, the knot has to be wider, doing a half-Windsor will do just fine. But because the short collar is now more in trend it's flexible enough to where a smaller knot can actually make it seem like it fits. Since brands are creating more slim-fitting or tapered styles, it becomes easier for the entire look. In other words, make it as close as possible to a tailored made shirt (which I recommend you do instead, if you can). And always keep in mind the length of your tie should never go passed your belt buckle or the button that fastens your trousers. The perfect length should fall just above the buckle or barely be able to touch the buckle or button.
The width - This is a very simple fact to keep in mind. Make sure the width of your tie goes no wider than 2 inches. We are talking about skinny/narrower ties here. It doesn't stop there. Your lapel width should also be considered. The lapels on your jacket (considering you might be wearing a suit or just a blazer) should also be narrower. Don't even try to rock a skinny tie with a Tom Ford suit. The tie will drown in those very wide collars and make you look disorganized.
The basics - We've got down the measurements but now here are rules that, I'm pretty sure, will not change. Never wear a tie that is the same color and or design as your shirt. Not unless you plan on wearing an all black tuxedo or suit to a formal event, don't even think about wearing the same color tie and shirt. Although, it is OK for you to wear a tie that is in a different shade, for example, wearing a sky blue shirt with a navy colored tie. This should be common sense by now, but unfortunately, I have seen a TV personality who has done the same color tie and shirt look on many occasions. I'd love to meet the person who is styling him and just give an awkward stare.
Behind bars - Tie bars are excellent pieces of accessories. Since there has been an emergence of short collared shirts with an abundance of skinny ties, they have now been producing shorter tie bars for those ties. I have mentioned this rule before about tie bars, it should never be wider than the tie. A tie bar isn't necessary but it definitely adds a bit more sophistication to your look. Personally, it doesn't matter if I have one or not. The idea that there is a tie around my neck is enough to make me think I'm not naked. Yes, you read that correctly. I feel naked when I am wearing a dress shirt without a tie.

GQ.com (Tie bars)

I've put together a few shirt and tie combos to give you an idea on what and how to wear them. To keep things safe, you want to try and go for contrast colors when it comes to matching a tie with a shirt. This can be taken farther by considering the fabric used for the preferred tie. You also have to consider the design on the tie and make sure it doesn't clash with your shirt's design. If you want to keep things really safe, if you are in doubt, just stick with solids. A solid colored shirt with a solid colored tie.